21
JUL
Image courtesy of ezioma

Cinque Terre was one of the destinations I was most looking forward to before my trip began. I was super pumped for doing some hiking and had heard about the beautiful trails with gorgeous views of the coast line.

I had booked a hostel in the small village of Riomaggiore, located at one end of the Cinque Terre. It was about a 4 hour train ride from Ventimiglia, during which I met a couple from Wisconsin whose names I can’t remember. The train rolled into Riomaggiore in the middle of the afternoon. I walked through a colorful pedestrian tunnel that connects the main street of Riomaggiore with the train station. It led out into a softly winding street that crept up the hill away from the water. The road was lined with small markets and pizza shops, as well as a few hostels/restaurants.
(Continue reading…)

Posted by Kevin @ 13:52 on July 21, 2009
Categories: eurotrip, travel; Tags: , , , , ,
15
JUL

If you read my first post, you might remember that Torri Superiore (TS) was one of my favorite destinations on the trip. Often times when I tell people about it I am asked how or why I decided to go there for two days, so I present that information here (feel free to skip ahead if you don’t care).

The Prologue

Although I did minimal research for my trip before I left, I did spend some time looking for some areas where I could “get away” so to speak from the city/touristy travel. I had a couple of recommendations for Cinque Terre (my next destination), but I was struggling to come up with other concrete locations. Having just finished the book Deep Economy, my search quickly took a turn towards environmentally conscious or ecologically sustainable communities. I had also recently discovered the concept of Earthships so I ended up down that path. I was unable to find any Earthships near train lines, but I did stumble across the term “ecovillage” which led me down a promising tree of links. (Continue reading…)

Posted by Kevin @ 16:23 on July 15, 2009
Categories: eurotrip, travel; Tags: , , , ,
07
JUL

The overnight bus ride from London to Paris was not fun by any standards. As mentioned multiple times I was pretty sleep deprived by this point, and this bus ride pointed out to me that at some point during college I lost the ability to sleep sitting up. The ride took about 8 hours total, with a ferry carrying us from the UK to the European mainland. Thankfully we were allowed to get off the bus and walk around once we were on the ferry. It was storming during the ferry ride, the the water was choppy and the boat rocked quite a bit. I tried in vain to sleep on some benches and chairs. We were on the boat for maybe an hour and a half at most. The only redeeming part of the bus ride itself was the passenger sitting next to me watching an English movie on his laptop with headphones and french subtitles. I was able to grasp the gist of most of the plot which helped pass the time.

At around 6:30 the bus pulled into a station on the outskirts of Paris. I wandered up to the giant subway map on the wall where a few other travelers were standing trying to make sense of where we were. Eventually we all figured out how to get where we were going and got in line for the one ticket machine nearby. I ended up buying subway tickets for myself and another couple who’s credit card wouldn’t work. (Continue reading…)

Posted by Kevin @ 10:11 on July 7, 2009
Categories: eurotrip, travel; Tags: , , , ,
02
JUL

London was the first destination on my path to enlightenment since it was the cheapest destination to fly into. I had not originally planned to spend any time in London because it is so expensive, but I change my mind at the last minute and figured I might as well check out the city while I am there. It was also nice to start out the trip in an English speaking country to kind of ease into things.


    Image courtesy of michaelrighi

I arrived at the airport at 7:30 in the morning. I was planning to couchsurf with a host I had been in contact with, but I had forgotten to write down the directions to his place. The lady checking passports at the airport was not too pleased when I told her this, but she reluctantly let me into the country anyway. I quickly proceeded to find an overpriced internet terminal so I could copy down the directions from my e-mail.

The airport is located north of the city a bit so I needed to take a train into town. I was pointed in the right direction by the train help desk guy and grabbed the train at about 8:30. I was supposed to change over to the tube (subway) to reach my actual destination. This proved to be quite a challenge since I walked in completely the wrong direction for a while and had to have some maintenance guys point me to where I actually needed to be going. I finally managed to find the right train and get to my stop.

I had told my host I would arrive at his place around 9:00 since he usually leaves for work at 10:00. It was about 9:30 by the time I got off the tube. It was also, in typical London fashion, raining slightly. I walked the 9 or 10 blocks to his place and arrived at 9:50. Luckily he answered the door looking like he just woke up. The guy’s name was Steve.

He gave me a brief tour of his tiny flat where I met another couchsurfer, one who cannot be pinned down by such a fragile and earthly thing as a name, but for convenience will be referred to as “Ken.” Ken is a super cool dude who had been traveling for some time before I met him, and who’s soul is still off experiencing the world as I write this. Ken and I left shortly thereafter while Steve headed to work. We found a place to consume the requisite English breakfast, and then just sort of wandered around the rest of the afternoon. We strolled down the markets on Portobello Road, through Hyde Park and the Kensington Gardens, and saw Buckingham Palace before heading up to the Soho area to find some food.

The Portobello markets were really cool with cheap produce and a variety of other items available for purchase. Buckingham Palace was about what you’d expect, crowded with tourists all pining for a photo of the famous Queen’s Guard. My favorite part of London was the parks/gardens. They were huge and gorgeous with a large variety of plant life and wide open green areas. They also weren’t packed with people which was nice. This preference will become a pattern throughout the rest of my posts.

After some over-priced Indian food and a quick stop at a clothing store, Ken and I headed for a bar called “The Couch” for a London Couchsurfing meet-up. It was about 19:00 at this point (yes, I’m going to use 24-hour time while talking about Europe). The meet-up had a huge turnout and more people kept showing up. I got to speak to quite a few cool people which convinced me to try to surf in Paris, my next destination. I also met a couple of Americans who were headed to Paris next and made plans to meet up with them one day. I left the bar at about 20:30 to head back to my host. Ken chose to stay at the bar and try to find a new host for the night.

When I got back to Steve’s flat, I found two more couchsurfers had arrived in the meantime, one guy from Kentucky named Marcus, and another from Argentina who’s name I cannot remember. Both were cool people, but I was sort of unsure where we were all going to sleep given the tiny size of the flat. After a bit of getting to know each other, we headed out for a local pub near Steve’s place. The pub was pretty cool, it had 4 or 5 little rooms separated by short walls that did not reach the ceiling. To cross from room to room we needed to pass through a small door reminiscent of Wonderland, with beer as our shrinking potion.

We stayed for a few drinks and chatted for a while, with the conversation turning more and more to politics as the volume of beer increased. The pub closed at midnight and we headed back to Steve’s place for 1 more drink before crashing on his floor. It was a tight squeeze but we all managed to fit.

At about 1:30 Marcus and I left Steve’s place due to an altercation, the details of which are not important (and don’t bother asking in the comments). What is important however is that we were wandering around an unfamiliar town at 1:30 in the morning, myself exhausted and still slightly drunk. I should mention that I hadn’t slept in about 36 hours at this point (minus the ~1 hour I had just gotten). We wandered around lost for a while and finally found a pay phone to call a hostel to get directions. Unfortunately the guy working the desk at the hostel did not know the city very well and could not tell us where we were exactly. So we wandered around a bit more before Marcus thankfully figured out where we were. We caught a bus downtown to a different hostel, checked in, and crashed at around 4:00. We intended to wake up at 9:30 in order to shower before check-out, but instead ended up sleeping straight through until the bell for checkout startled our tired bodies out of bed.

I split with Marcus at this point and wandered out into the rain in search of an internet cafe. Instead I found breakfast and coffee, which were more vital to my survival at that point anyway. I changed clothes and cleaned up in the bathroom of the little cafe before managing to find an internet cafe nearby. I posted a message to the “Last Minute Couch Paris” group on Couchsurfing looking for a place to stay while I was there. In the meantime I figured out how to take a cheap overnight bus from London to Paris that left at around 20:30. I headed to the bus station to purchase tickets and then go from there. I was carrying my full pack around this entire day, which I estimated to weigh around 20kg (44 lbs) or so.

After finding the bus station and purchasing tickets, I decided to go see some more “sights.” I walked past Westminster Abbey, which was impressively huge. I was going to take pictures but came to the unfortunate realization that I had left my camera, along with a couple of books and other belongings at Steve’s place. I thought they were lost forever but I was able to eventually recover the items at the end of my trip in Dublin.

After the Abbey, I headed in the direction of a design museum I really wanted to check out. Unfortunately I ran out of time and energy before I got there, but I did manage to see Shakespeare’s Globe Theater which was pretty cool. I turned around at that point and tried to take a “shortcut” back to the bus station… big mistake. I made this mistake more than once while I was in Europe: if you follow a street headed in one direction, there is no guarantee that it will continue heading in that direction, take you where you thought you were going, or even keep the same name the entire way. So I paid for my arrogance by wandering around lost for about an hour before figuring a way out of the labyrinth. I got back to Victoria Station with plenty of time to spare, so I grabbed some lunch and internet and waited for the bus. A couchsurfer from Paris had contacted me at this point saying I could stay with him. He gave me a general location of his place, and I told him to send me his address which I would retrieve once I was in Paris.

I boarded the bus on time, smelly and exhausted, not having slept or showered in some time. I think I also probably walked over 15 km that day.

London overall was a roller coaster ride. I met some really cool people, but my karma deficit also seemed to follow me across the pond, resulting in a scattered series of unfortunate events. The city seems like a cool place to live, with a diverse mix of people and ideas. I was only there for 2 days so I didn’t get to see a lot of it, but I did like what I saw and most of the people I met.

Posted by Kevin @ 13:03 on July 2, 2009
Categories: eurotrip, travel; Tags: , ,
30
JUN

Image courtesy of whiteafrican on Flickr

My trip got off to a great start.

I was scheduled to fly out of Kansas City on May 24 at 10:55 a.m. I received an automated phone call at about 10:00 the night before while I was leaving a Kansas City Wizards game. The robot on the end of the line kindly informed me that my flight had been canceled and that I was placed on a new flight for the same day that would leave at ~4:30 p.m. instead. I was completely fine with this news since that meant I did not have to get up as early and could stay out carousing until the sun rose. The new flight was also connecting through Cleveland instead of Atlanta and would fly into London Heathrow instead of London Gatwick. Neither of these location changes really mattered.

The next day my cousin was kind enough to give me a ride to the airport. I had been told to get there at least 2 hours early for the international flight because it “takes longer.” This was a dirty trick, and I ended up at my gate an hour and 45 minutes before my flight. In the meantime I contacted the host I was supposed to stay with and let him know that I was going to be arriving later than expected.

The airport was uneventful and we boarded the plan on time. I ended up sitting next to a lady from Maine who frequently visits London to see shows/etc since it is apparently cheaper for her to go there than it is to go to New York. Across the aisle was a nice girl named Lauren who lives in DC but apparently travels to KC quite often for work. These are the friends I made in the hour we sat on the plane while the maintenance staff tried in vain to fix the navigational computer. Apparently it would work sometimes when they restarted it and not others. This news did not exactly instill confidence in the passengers. (The pilots were apparently not strong in the force and still required targeting computers in order to fly).

Eventually they kicked us off the plane so that we could sit even less comfortably in the terminal waiting area. At first some people in the crowd were understandably miffed because they (along with myself) were going to miss connections in Cleveland and wished to be re-scheduled for a different flight. One lady had set up a specific time and location to meet with relatives from all over the world and had no way to contact them. Eventually people passed into acceptance and began to patiently wait things out for the next hour and a half. After that tempers once again began to boil and flare.

In the Delta section of the airport there were apparently only two terminal employees left and they were trying to figure out the flight, handle phone calls, and manage the passengers all at once. Needless to say it was a mess. It was around 6:00 by this time, but there were apparently no more flights leaving that night for some reason. The next day was Memorial day so I don’t know if that mattered or not.

After about 2 hours of waiting they finally decided to cancel the flight and begin re-scheduling passengers for the next day. This process took about 20-30 minutes per passenger for some reason. I managed to catch a glimpse of the software they were using behind the desk and I’m pretty sure they modeled it after the interface from an 80’s movie. I eventually was re-scheduled for a flight the next afternoon through New York, received a hotel voucher and two meal vouchers worth $7 each (not that $7 can buy a meal at an airport hotel), then headed out to get my baggage and catch the bus to the hotel. It was about 7:30 at this point.

I got the bus with Lauren and a woman from Berlin. After I checked into my room I headed down to meet the two of them for our “free” dinner. We ended up just sitting at the bar and drinking/eating where we met a pair of other refugees from the flight who were bridge partners about to take a week vacation in London. We chatted up for the next few hours while more people from the flight wandered in and out. I managed to find out that the other London travelers had snagged an earlier flight than I was scheduled for, so after we headed to our rooms I called Delta and got my flight re-scheduled for the earlier one. The unfortunate downside to this change was a 5 hour layover in New York. I also contacted my host to let him know once again that I had been delayed and would now be arriving in London the morning of the 26th, one day later than originally planned. I then slept well for what would end up being the last time for a while.

The next morning went off without too much of a hitch. The flight to New York was uneventful and I hung out with the bridge guys for a few hours at the NY airport (no bridge was played sadly). The flight from NY to London was delayed half an hour due to a strong tailwind but did not affect our arrival time.

On the plane across the Atlantic I received two servings of hot pasta spilled on me by the flight attendant. One of those times it splashed all over a book which still shows blood-red scars from the incident. Fortunately it is still readable and won’t have to be put out to pasture just yet. At this point I was beginning to wonder what I had done recently that would have bestowed me with such Karma problems.

I did manage to eventually arrive in London “on time,” which I will talk more about in the next post. I was lucky enough to not have very concrete plans so the whole delay did not affect my trip much other than to steal a day of sight-seeing from me. In exchange however I was able to meet some cool people. It’s funny how a situation of misfortune can bring people together. The phrase “misery loves company” isn’t necessarily negative in connotation.

Posted by Kevin @ 15:04 on June 30, 2009
Categories: eurotrip, travel; Tags: , ,

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